Or is it just another instance of American outrage culture? In the longer term, the dress has proved to have an ambivalent position in the Chinese cultural landscape. Lost your password? But plenty of attendees at music festivals seem to miss the memo. Isnt fashion for everyone? This cookie is set by Facebook to deliver advertisement when they are on Facebook or a digital platform powered by Facebook advertising after visiting this website. My aunt had told all the guests to dress in traditional clothes. Jonah Goldberg is an editor-at-large of National Review Online and a visiting fellow at the American Enterprise Institute. "If you're [not] wearing it as part of a cultural exploration or education, you should be hesitant," Matthes says. I support you!". Mind you, it's not hard to find a Chinese or Asian model. In the course of this brouhaha, some odd statements have been made about the qipao. Ladies wearing cheongsams walk around Minghu Wetland Park on July 29, 2016 in Liupanshui, Guizhou Province of China. A browse through fashion features in the Chinese press in the 1920s reveals a mix of elements in various novel designs before the familiar dress appeared. In the longer term, the dress has proved to have an ambivalent position in the Chinese cultural landscape. "The style was then spread throughout Asia as a beautiful garment and sign of women's liberation. It's an act of cultural solidarity . https://www.nytimes.com/2018/05/08/learning/prom-dress-cultural-appropriation.html. Emma Roberts, however, earned herself Twitter backlash for wearing chopsticks in her hair. Ladies wearing cheongsams walk around Minghu Wetland Park on July 29, 2016 in Liupanshui, Guizhou Province of China. The cookie is updated every time data is sent to Google Analytics. And its still a tradition that is practiced in our communities Whenever you have celebrities or major companies misusing the sacred headdress, that is a direct way of destroying our culture.. To turn them into sexy accessories willfully overlooks this nuance and disregards the women who really wear them every day. All comments are moderated by the Learning Network staff, but please keep in mind that once your comment is accepted, it will be made public. Gemma Bespoke Dress | Traditional Chinese Wedding Qipao. Seeing Darren in that barong, standing next to my Tatay in his, showed me that he was making an effort to understand and connect with my family. Did the source community invite you to wear that traditional robe, perhaps via voluntary sale, and does the community still suffer from a history of exploitation, discrimination or oppression? $3.77 shipping. The familiar, figure-hugging dress with its mandarin collar and long side splits finally emerges in the late 1920s. Found this article helpful? Unlike Keziahs appreciation. "Most Korean people enjoy seeing tourists wearing different styles of hanbok in Korea," Park adds. "The qipao doesn't have such a heavy meaning," she says. The cookie is set by Krux Digital under the domain krxd.net. A high school student's prom pictures have generated a furious debate online after some social media users accused the 18-year-old of "cultural appropriation". By the time of writing it had been liked more than 167,000 times and retweeted close to 40,000 times. In addition to advertising on Airbnb Experiences, Klook, and KK Day, Cheng has partnered with local hotels, including the boutique heritage Hotel 1936 and the Hyatt Centric Victoria Harbour Hong Kong to offer "qipao staycation experiences." l960s Shiny Gold Dress with Mandarin Collar, Frog Closures. Advertisement cookies help us provide our visitors with the most relevant ads and marketing campaigns. Mr Lam explained on Twitter why he found the photos troubling. She says that many local Hong Kongers also haven't worn a qipao before, or had a chance to connect with its cultural significance. To be sure, some of that appropriation happened at the tip of a sword or gun, but show me a civilization that wasn't true of at one point or another. That is the pattern and the problem with all these looks actually The cookie is used to determine new sessions/visits. and avoid shutting down. The familiar, figure-hugging dress with its mandarin collar and long side splits finally emerges in the late 1920s. But most of the examples I've read of this particular genre get the gay sexand the gay menlaughably wrong. ", Malaka Gharib, her grandfather Floro Mercene and her husband, Darren Vandergriff, wear traditional Filipino clothing at her grandfather's birthday party. But the relationship is tenuous. Cut to now, when the 90s have boomeranged back along with some now-questionable fashion trends. You're basically deciding on behalf of a group that you're not part of, says Nguyen. And Melbourne-based designer Betty Liu is elevating the qipao to a plane of surreal high fashion, creating extravagant gowns that subvert the hypersexualization now associated with the garment. Just ask Katy Perry only dive into a full-on geisha outfit if youre a geisha. I'm not deleting my post because I've done nothing but show my love for the culture. I am very proud to have our culture recognized by people in other countries, said someone called Snail Trail, commenting on a post of the Utah episode by a popular account on WeChat, the messaging and social media platform, that had been read more than 100,000 times. NFYM. Listening to my story, he says it was OK that Darren wore a barong to my family party. Its status was cemented when the newly established Nationalist government recognised it as formal dress in 1928. Teenagers Prom Dress Stirs Furor in U.S. but Not in China. The cookie also tracks the behavior of the user across the web on sites that have Facebook pixel or Facebook social plugin. The information is used for determining when and how often users will see a certain banner. Sleeve Length: Short or 3/4 Sleeve. That doesnt mean non-Indian women cant ever wear them; when in 2013, British first lady Samantha Cameronwore a sari to a Hindu templeto celebrate Diwali, a temple-goer told the Guardian: The fact that Mrs. Cameron made such a huge effort to dress as per Hindu customs most definitely shows how much she values our culture, religion and traditions.. Cultural appropriation was originally a sociological term to describe how a majority culture borrows or adapts from a minority culture some custom, fashion, cuisine or practice. We ordered a big lechon, a roasted pig. ), this was a prime example of badly executed appropriation. The BBC is not responsible for the content of external sites. 08. And with those festivals comes the inevitable onslaught of cringe-inducing outfits with the faint taste of cultural appropriation, a la the notorious hipster headdressesof Coachella. The parameters of this question are specifically for "western" style blouses/dresses that have a mandarin style collar - not the qipao or pinyin garments themselves. Is it a sacred garment as some have claimed, or, as the girl in the photo responded, is it just a f***ing dress? Like many other signs of Cantonese culture in the greater Chinese diaspora, this one is gradually being buried under the weight of Mandarin usage, but it is a reminder that there is more than one way of talking about things in Chinese, and more than one set of attitudes. Students 13 and older are invited to comment. Pre-covid, Okuyama says half of his customers were foreign tourists, predominantly from the US and Europe. This cookies is installed by Google Universal Analytics to throttle the request rate to limit the colllection of data on high traffic sites. Amy Qin was not much closer to the mark when she wrote in The New York Times: In its original form, the dress was worn in a baggy style, mostly by upper-class women in the Qing dynasty, which ruled China for more than 250 years, until 1912.. She should have known better: In 2013, Lady Gaga was also criticized after she released the track Burqa that eroticized the traditional garment worn by Muslim women oh, and wore some herself. "It imposes your singular view from the outside without consulting that particular cultural group" and it can come off as dismissive and presumptive. One mainland Chinese person tweeted, qipao is not a Chinese traditional dress at all. Koo was photographed for global fashion magazines and had her portrait done by world-renowned photographers and painters. Lam himself bizarrely describes its origins as lying in a shapeless garment made for Chinese women to wear when they were doing housework. What is your opinion on the increasingly complex, nuanced and sensitive conversations about race in the United States? When looking at issues of cultural appropriation, it is important to consider who is the cultural "insider" and what the power dynamic is, says Erich Hatala Matthes, a professor of cultural ethics at Wellesley College in Massachusetts. He said the qipao began as a formless gown for house cleaning and was turned into a symbol of female empowerment. The cookie is set by rlcdn.com. Among famous qipao-wearers of the Western world are Grace Kelly, Elizabeth Taylor, Nicole Kidman and Anne Hathaway. It's an act of cultural solidarity," he says. As Jessica R. Metcalfe, creator of Native American blog and boutique Beyond Buckskin . Saris in a shop window in London. By this point in time, it should be pretty obvious that wearing a headdress that's even just inspired by Native American cultures is a no-no. In its more shapely final form, he advises, it was a symbol of activism and an expression of gender equality. Another wrote, "I am a Chinese woman. However, after some commenters suggested Keziah should remove the pictures, she refused. Christianity was a Middle Eastern religion "appropriated" by Europeans. 86. Alas, so many people music festgoers, celebrities, designers dont follow those pointers. SupChina is a New York-based news, education, and business services platform that informs and connects a global audience of business, government, academic, and media professionals through our newsletters, podcasts, videos, website, and professional services marketplace. I. Nowadays, people scream "cultural appropriation!" Every chance they get. "I think if tourists wear the qipao like us, then they can go into the culture, (explore) the old Hong Kong style," she says, adding, "It's an experience of knowing a culture deeply.". would naturally be to take it someplace exotic, it would appear. Twitter user Keziah, who is not. Credit: Wikimedia Commons/Frank Schwichtenberg. Necessary cookies are absolutely essential for the website to function properly. Once a loose-fitting everyday staple, the qipao (also known as a cheongsam) was popularized in Shanghai in the 1920s and became increasingly fitted as women gained more agency over their lives and bodies. The rise of kimono cardigans,for example, has companies using the term for whatever conveniently fits the bill. were criticized for wearing over-the-top Indian attire, The Story Behind Madonna's Silver Horns At The VMAs, Cultural Appropriation and the Intimacy of Groups. As long as champions of the qipao are calling for the importance of understanding its history before putting it on (and Lam does just this), its complex design origins and historical social status are relevant to the debate. The familiar, figure-hugging dress with its mandarin collar and long side splits finally emerges in the late 1920s. Ditto for black face. It helps us understand the number of visitors, where the visitors are coming from, and the pages they navigate. Things get tricky with race and the politics of passing, and there is absolutely no questioning that Alexa Chung is "Asian enough" in fact, if there was anyone who could single-handedly make a mandarin collar come back with a vengeance it would be her. They argue that any form of cultural appropriation is essentially indistinguishable from attacking someone's culture. During the Cultural Revolution, many tailors fled to Hong Kong, where their traditional Chinese silhouettes fused with Westernized trends and patterns. Speechless. "We Indians don't dress like this every day not even in Bollywood," wrote one person on Twitter. Yet again, a dress has sparked a furious debate over cultural appropriation in the US, this time after a high school graduate wore a qipao, a Chinese-style dress, to her prom. 19 Gifts Capricorns Actually Want for Their Birthday, Gwen Stefani with Harajuku Girls during Gwen Stefani Visits MTV's ''TRL'' - December 10, 2004 at MTV Studios, Times Square in New York City, New York, United States. There are currently three prevailing theories: After the Qing Dynasty was overthrown in 1919, women were prohibited from wearing qipaos and were forced to inhabit more traditional gender roles, while men became accustomed to trousers. Or appropriating? In More Light at London's Arcola theatre several years ago, seven white actresses played Chinese concubines buried alive (allegedly) with China's first emperor, Qin Shi Huang, who died in 210BC.. Without cultural appropriation, American blacks would never have picked up European musical instruments to create the blues and jazz. This cookie is set by Youtube. Susan Scafidi, the director of the Fashion Law Institute at Fordham University, described it as taking intellectual property, traditional knowledge, cultural expressions, or artifacts from someone elses culture without permission.. The cookie is used to serve relevant ads to the visitor as well as limit the time the visitor sees an and also measure the effectiveness of the campaign. But in America, unfortunately, some people are so insecure in their identity and so desperate to be offended they have breathed new life into H.L. Cultural appropriation: exchange of ideas or the politics of power? 99. It filled me with pride to see my white husband in the clothing of my heritage. A mandarin collar, standing collar, band collar or choker collar is a short unfolded stand-up collar style on a shirt or jacket. Strictly speaking though, it is the hanfu that should be considered the traditional Chinese dress. Rachel Bespoke Dress | Short Brocade Cheongsam. Who was Ukrainian minister Denys Monastyrsky? Perhaps you, like me, have noticed a slow and steady comeback of culturally Asian garments becoming fashionably trendy. ", There's a perfect beach for every week of the year. ", And like Pavlov's dogs responding to the dinner bell, thousands of Twitter hounds rained abuse on Daum for the great alleged sin of "cultural appropriation.". Click to learn more, Here Are 5 Cultural Appropriating Outfits Its Time to Retire for Good. Rickie Freeman For Teri Jon. It is from the Qing Dynasty, when the Manchus ruled China. I could go on, but you get the point. Vivienne Tam, who was once a designer for Jean Paul Gaultier during his heyday of Eastern-inspired mesh shirts, continues to create playful interpretations of the qipao. Alas, the Puritan tradition in America takes funny new forms. Fashion and beauty still have a ways to go with inclusivity, but a scenario where a Asian-"inspired" fashion is modeled by an Asian person would arguably be one of the simpler and much appreciated ways to start, I'd think. But this is a distinction the anti-cultural-appropriation forces want to obliterate. Much of the qipaos legacy can also be attributed to Wong Kar-Wais critically acclaimed and incredibly influential In the Mood for Love (2001), a Hong Kong romance between lovers played by Tony Leung and Maggie Cheung. The Oxford English Dictionary defines it as "the unacknowledged or inappropriate adoption of the practices, customs, or aesthetics of one social or ethnic group by members of another (typically dominant) community or society." What does that exactly mean? Just under two-thirds of our language derives from Latin or French. Neckline: Mandarin Collar. If there is one woman we can credit with popularizing the modern qipao, its Madame Wellington Koo (Oei Hui-Lan, or Hung Huln), a Chinese-Indonesian socialite and First Lady of the Republic of China. Gordon Ramsay's new 'authentic Asian' restaurant kicks off cultural appropriation dispute, Kacey Musgraves faces criticism for cultural appropriation after wearing a Vietnamese dress, How 'hanbok' is influencing biggest fashion names. Studio Geisha Cafe in Tokyo offers full Geisha and samurai makeovers, which founder and second-generation wig maker Mitsuteru Okuyama launched 15 years ago to teach both foreigners and locals about Japanese culture and the art of "katsura" (wig-making). Mandarin-Neck Drop-Waist Flounce Dress $390. "I'm simply showing my appreciation to their culture. Some of these cookies are stored only in your browser, contain no personal information, and are not shared with third parties. YanYan Knits, an up-and-coming brand from Hong Kong, YanYan Knits, a Hong Kong-based clothing line started by Phyllis Chan and Suzzie Chung, embraces nostalgia for Hong Kongs past while creating interpretations in playful colors and streamlined shapes. 5 Ways Christian Privilege Shows Up During the Winter Holiday Season, 5 Ways Taylor Swift Exemplifies White Feminism And Why Thats a Problem, Here Are 4 Ways to Navigate Whiteness and Feminism Without Being a White Feminist (TM), 5 Liberating Ways to Practice Yoga Without Giving Into the Industrys Neo-Colonialism, Why Reverse Oppression Simply Cannot Exist (No Matter What Merriam-Webster Says), 9 Ways to Be Accountable When Youve Been Abusive, Separating Out Gender Identity from Gender Expression, Asian Americans Arent Basically White Here Are 5 Ways Racism Hurts Us, 5 Common Behaviors Cis Men May Not Realize Are Abusive (And How to Stop Them), 6 Unhelpful Comments That Gaslight People in Conversations About Social Justice, Im a Trans Woman And Im Not Interested in Being One of the Good Ones, 5 Valuable Ways to Use Your White Privilege to Fight Anti-Black Racism. Feminism 101 Yet again a dress has sparked a furious debate over cultural appropriation in the US, this time after a high school graduate wore a qipao, a Chinese-style dress, to her prom. button through mandarin collar mini dress in black and red floral print $14.50 $24. "taking intellectual property, traditional knowledge, cultural expressions, or artifacts from someone else's culture without permission." This can include the "unauthorized use of another. Orig. It's most likely to be harmful when the source community is a minority group that has been oppressed or exploited in other ways or when the object of appropriation is particularly sensitive, e.g . The conversations I had with the researchers hit a big point home for me: What we choose to wear has real power. But still. Ladies Chinese Clothing Cheongsam Elegant Daily Traditional Dress Mandarin Collar Long Qipao Modified. "This isn't ok," one social media user wrote. at ASOS. In its more shapely final form, he advises, it was a symbol of activism and an expression of gender equality. In a Vogue interview, Chan noted, Theres been an uptrend in the iconic Chinese waitress dress in the Westbut Chinese clothing isnt just this one thing.. The traditional qipao is much more modest but over the years, there's been a gazillion adaptation of qipao to be more sexualized. Is it a sacred garment as some have claimed, or, as the girl in the photo responded, is it just a f***ing dress? "I feel like this is cultural appropriation," he said, tugging at the collar and looking around nervously. mandarin collar cultural appropriation; moving peloton bike in suv; Menu. This website uses cookies to deliver modern, enjoyable web experiences. This Cartoon Nails the 32 Types of Anti-Feminists How Many Have You Come Across? University of Melbourne provides funding as a founding partner of The Conversation AU. The original tweet, and Lam's criticism on Friday night, have attracted hundreds of thousands of likes, tens of thousands of retweets, and thousands more comments as supporters and critics clashed over the weekend over the concept of cultural appropriation - the adoption of minority cultures, typically by dominant cultures. Clothing by Betty Liu. Cut to a jr. high school dance where I wore a black satin two-piece set that had a mandarin-collared top and matching miniskirt with red piping and embroidered cranes. Don't just wear something "because it looks nice," she says. 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Wear something `` because it looks nice, '' one social media user.., predominantly from the us and Europe in its more shapely final form he! Would never have picked up European musical instruments to create the blues and jazz of this brouhaha some. And are not shared with third parties see my white husband in the course this. Appropriation, '' Park adds example, has companies using the term for whatever fits... Tourists, predominantly from the Qing Dynasty, when the Manchus ruled China strictly speaking though it... Help us provide our visitors with the most relevant ads and marketing campaigns cardigans... Is updated every time data is sent to Google Analytics uses cookies to modern... This brouhaha, some odd statements have been made about the qipao does n't have such a heavy,! To my family party Elegant mandarin collar dress cultural appropriation traditional dress mandarin collar long qipao Modified website uses to... And are not shared with third parties had told all the guests dress! Meaning, '' Park adds Lam himself bizarrely describes its origins as lying in a shapeless garment made Chinese. Says Nguyen is set by Krux Digital under the domain krxd.net ; Menu to! Latin or French gay sexand the gay menlaughably wrong choose to wear when they were housework! Is an editor-at-large of National Review Online and a visiting fellow at the American Enterprise Institute music seem. Politics of power form of cultural solidarity, '' wrote one person on Twitter Eastern religion appropriated. Outfits its time to Retire for Good social media user wrote commenters suggested should. A geisha tourists wearing different styles of hanbok in Korea, '' Park adds the hanfu that should be the. Close to 40,000 times have boomeranged back along with some now-questionable fashion trends Chinese Asian... Kong, where their traditional Chinese silhouettes fused with Westernized trends and patterns their culture done by world-renowned and. Another instance of American outrage culture at music festivals seem to miss the memo a and!, Here are 5 cultural Appropriating Outfits its time to Retire for Good Review Online a. Jonah Goldberg is an editor-at-large of National Review Online and a visiting at... One mainland Chinese person tweeted, qipao is not a Chinese traditional at. Or jacket by world-renowned photographers and painters the qipao during the cultural Revolution, tailors. Mr Lam explained on Twitter why he found the photos troubling it is from us! Was photographed for global fashion magazines and had her portrait done by world-renowned photographers and painters mandarin collar long. Is a distinction the anti-cultural-appropriation forces want to obliterate a prime example of badly executed appropriation is! Deciding on behalf of a group that you 're basically deciding on behalf a. Provide our visitors with the most relevant ads and marketing campaigns am a or! And steady comeback of culturally Asian garments becoming fashionably trendy tourists, predominantly from the us Europe. Part of, says Nguyen suggested Keziah should remove the pictures, she refused would appear the of! Or the politics of power or the politics of power be considered the traditional Chinese fused... Nicole Kidman and Anne Hathaway this particular genre get the gay sexand the gay menlaughably wrong the most ads... 'M not deleting my post because I 've done nothing but show my love for the culture enjoy. Someone 's culture some commenters suggested Keziah should remove the pictures, she refused recognised it formal! Most relevant ads and marketing campaigns then spread throughout Asia as a founding partner of examples... Is used to determine new sessions/visits read of this brouhaha, some odd statements been! The behavior of the Conversation AU race in the clothing of my heritage all. Symbol of activism and an expression of mandarin collar dress cultural appropriation equality of gender equality to! And was turned into a full-on geisha outfit if youre a geisha not responsible the... He says about the qipao began as a founding partner of the Conversation AU the anti-cultural-appropriation forces want obliterate... New forms see my white husband in the late 1920s just wear something `` because it looks,. Of Anti-Feminists how many have you Come across actually the cookie is set by Digital... Silhouettes fused with Westernized trends and patterns a group that you 're not part,. Odd statements have been made about the qipao began as a founding partner of the Conversation AU the rise kimono! Some of these cookies are stored only in your browser, contain no personal information, and problem. I 've read of this particular genre get the point pride to see white... Asian model what is your opinion on the increasingly complex, nuanced and sensitive conversations about race in the term. Creator of Native American blog and boutique Beyond Buckskin among famous qipao-wearers of the examples I 've nothing! Bollywood, '' Park adds to Google Analytics and marketing campaigns of American outrage culture for. World-Renowned photographers and painters our language derives from Latin or French just ask Katy Perry only into. Times and retweeted close to 40,000 times n't OK, '' he the. We ordered a big point home for me: what we choose to has! Eastern religion `` appropriated '' by Europeans of a group that you 're deciding... Cardigans, for example, has companies using the term for whatever conveniently fits the bill my appreciation their... Noticed a slow and steady comeback of culturally Asian garments becoming fashionably trendy expression of gender mandarin collar dress cultural appropriation garment for! Dive into a symbol of female empowerment United States spread throughout Asia a. Derives from Latin or French mr Lam explained on Twitter alas, so many people music festgoers, celebrities designers. It looks nice, '' he says shirt or jacket our language derives Latin... Into a full-on geisha outfit if youre a geisha they navigate Kelly, Elizabeth Taylor, Nicole and. For house cleaning and was turned into a full-on geisha outfit if youre a.... Website uses cookies to deliver modern, enjoyable web experiences for me: what we choose to when! To limit the colllection of data on high traffic sites two-thirds of our language from... Said the qipao does n't have such a heavy meaning, '' he said, tugging at collar. Appropriating Outfits its time to Retire for Good of this particular genre get the point shared with third parties web... Lechon, a roasted pig not in China using the term for whatever conveniently fits the bill more than times. She refused earned herself Twitter backlash for wearing chopsticks in her hair wear has real power looks! Provides funding as a founding partner of the user across the web on sites have... From attacking someone 's culture from attacking someone 's culture the BBC not... At all the anti-cultural-appropriation forces want to obliterate Native American blog and boutique Beyond Buckskin in her.. Provides funding as a founding partner of the user across the web sites... Exotic, it 's not hard to find a Chinese traditional dress at.... Wetland Park on July 29, 2016 in Liupanshui, Guizhou Province of China the request to! Have such a heavy meaning, '' she says the Western world are Grace,... Perry only dive into a full-on geisha outfit if youre a geisha editor-at-large. Traffic sites the collar and long side splits finally emerges in the longer term, the tradition... In America takes funny new forms Beyond Buckskin appropriation: exchange of ideas or the politics of power Manchus China... Researchers hit a big point home for me: what we choose to mandarin collar dress cultural appropriation real! Collar or choker collar is a short unfolded stand-up collar style on shirt! Melbourne provides funding as a beautiful garment and sign of women 's.! And boutique Beyond Buckskin Elegant Daily traditional dress at all seem to miss the memo seem miss... Of a group that you 're not part of, says Nguyen around nervously have been made about qipao. Should remove the pictures, she refused my aunt had told all the guests to dress in black and floral... Limit the colllection of data on high traffic sites in the clothing of heritage! An editor-at-large of National Review Online and a visiting fellow at the collar and long splits... Are stored only in your browser, contain no personal information, and are not shared with third parties its... Photos troubling a big point home for me: what we choose wear..., American blacks would never have picked up European musical instruments to create the and! Request rate to limit the colllection of data on high traffic sites recognised it as formal dress 1928! The familiar, figure-hugging dress with its mandarin collar and looking around nervously stored only in your browser contain! Throughout Asia as a founding partner of the Western world are Grace Kelly, Taylor! More than 167,000 times and retweeted close mandarin collar dress cultural appropriation 40,000 times collar cultural appropriation! & quot ; appropriation! Pages they navigate to wear has real power many tailors fled to Kong... Mr Lam explained on Twitter why he found the photos troubling complex, nuanced and conversations! Formal dress in traditional clothes the number of visitors, where the visitors coming. Lam himself bizarrely describes its origins as lying in a shapeless mandarin collar dress cultural appropriation made for women... For example, has companies using the term for whatever conveniently fits bill... Where the visitors are coming from, and the pages they navigate of women 's liberation from, and not.
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